FAQ
Q. Can I still buy fuel pumps and parts during the shut down?
A. No, I underestimated this move and am not sure when I will be up and running. I hope mid to Late August. Please watch the website for updates.
Q. If I send in my original pump assembly and have it back as a "completely refurbed" fresh pump system including new pumps (both), which "service" do I select to accomplish that from your website store?
A. It would be the $400 Service.
Q. If instead I opt for purchasing a "previously refurbished assembly" does it include "new" or "refurbished" OEM LP and HP pumps?
A. It includes New Aftermarket LP and HP pumps. It is too expensive to buy the OEM (HP=$300 and LP is only available integrated in a new assembly)
Q. If "new pumps" are to be installed is that included in the $300 price?
A. No, the $300 service includes testing of your existing pumps. 95% of the time by the time I am contacted the pumps are too far gone and it results in replacement
Q. If I opt for purchasing a "previously refurbished assembly" has all of the internal black paint been removed?
A. Yes, I will also include a return label (Domestic Purchases Only) so that you can return your assembly for a Core Refund
Q. How much do I get back for a Core Refund.
A. $25 for Salt Water used, $75 for Fresh Water used and $0 if it is not salvageable. Note: If the Salt water assembly is salvageable then it will be worth $75
Q. If I opt for purchasing a "previously refurbished assembly" is the complete assembly OEM (Volvo/Carter) or aftermarket?
A. The assembly is OEM and the LP and HP pumps are aftermarket
Q. Is there any advantage to refurbishing my original pump assembly vs just buying one of your "previously refurbished" assemblies?
A. You would save $50-$100 if I refurbished yours but it will also take 7-10 days whereas just buying one will get you back on the water faster via Priority 2-3 mail.
Q. My HP pump is whining, what things can I check to try and correct it?
A. The HP pump is whining because it can't draw fuel or it is getting back pressure up stream.
- Start at the fuel tank (is there fuel)
- Anti-syphon valve (possible replacement, not common)
- Check the supply hoses for kinks or decay
- Fuel filter (old or new)
- LP electrical connection (did it come unplugged, are the contacts corroded, is the connector hot or melted)
- HP electrical connection (are the contacts corroded, is the connector hot or melted)
- Fuel Pressure Regulator (is the screen clean)
- Injectors (RPM's low under power, can you get higher RPM's in Neutral)
- Check the fuel pressure on the HP and LP sides
Q. Does the Fuel Pressure Regulator Screen filter debris before reaching the Injectors?
A. The FPR is offset in the fuel rail and only controls the pressure. It does not filter debris before the injectors.
Q. What Fuel Pressure am I supposed to have on the LP side?
A. Specs say 8 +/- 4psi but 16psi seems to be the norm.
Q. What Fuel Pressure am I supposed to have on the HP side for Port Fuel Injection?
A. Fuel pressure gauge should read 344-413 kPa (50-60 psi) for 4.3, 5.0, and 5.7 models and 248303 kPa (36-44 psi) for 8.1 models.
Q. What Fuel Pressure am I supposed to have on the HP side for a Throttle Body Injected system?
A. A pressure regulator is located in the throttle body. The regulator is a pressure operated diaphragm valve. This valve reacts to fuel pressure only. Pressure at the injectors during cranking is approximately 30 ± 2 PSI (200 ± 13,8 kPa).
Q. What can I check to see if I have a potential paint problem in my fuel pump?
A. There are 3 things that you can easily check:
1. Pull your fuel pressure regulator and check the screen for paint debris
2. Pull your fuel filter and check the seat on the upper assembly for paint damage
3. Pull your HP pump (this can be done while the assembly is still mounted to the engine) and check the screen for paint chips and debris.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aT7IxcVrrtY&lc=z23sszuaisuvihh0yacdp431lmjrrzh5ej5eaoqnbedw03c010c